A Lighthouse a Day

In a world where change is the only constant, these iconic buildings symbolise a connection to another time. Today, many remain unchanged and preserved, some surrounded by spectacular walking trails. Others tower majestically on a cliff's edge, amongst rugged vegetation, with a makeshift path running down to the sea. As we travelled south, the weather shifted and swirled from bush fires and fierce gales to searing sun. Read more...

Lighthouses were built in harsh and remote environments to withstand brutal weather, but their colour and crispness make them appear whimsical. The locations are great starting points for National Parks, there is usually some kind of kiosk, and kids can run ahead and feel wild in the elements.  With more than 350 lighthouses around Australia, this might be the start of a grand romance. These were our favourites.

 1. Cape Schanck Lighthouse is at the Southern tip of the Mornington Peninsula, on a dramatic headland. There are a number of good walking trails, including one that takes you to the wild beaches below. The gatekeepers' lodge was manned by a handsome mob of kangaroos.

 2. The first lighthouse on the Great Ocean Road is Split Point Lighthouse. It was the busiest lighthouse on our trip, but we had a serendipitous travel moment here!  Arriving around lunchtime in the heat of the day, our hunger wasn't apparent until we stumbled upon The Lighthouse Tea Rooms serving top-notch toasties and iced coffees.  Once well-fueled, we continued onwards to the lighthouse, which had stunning views of Eagle Rock Marine Park.

 3.  Apollo Bay was a great base for a few nights. A week before we arrived, fires had threatened the Great Otway National Park, but when we visited, mist and rain followed us to the coast. Cape Otway Lighthouse is the oldest surviving lighthouse on mainland Australia. The weather didn't dampen our spirits as we had an amazing koala encounter here; Drive Slowly! There is a large koala population here. The wind reached gale force as we took refuge in the ancient cottages that displayed the history of the area and the families who lived here more than 100 years ago.  

As we ventured across the headland path to the lighthouse, the fierce winds pushed us sideways. Once safely inside, climbing the winding stone staircase, all was quiet, but at the top, standing outside on a precarious little Victorian iron verandah, the wind howled at me and the waves crashed far below. I could see why this is called Victoria's Shipwreck Coast.  I felt incredibly small, but also strangely safe in the arms of this sturdy structure with Fresnel light turning behind me.

 Stretching from Cape Otway to Port Fairy, this coastline, including the Twelve Apostles, has claimed more than 700 ships since the 19th century, with only a fraction of the wrecks ever recovered. Dense fog, unpredictable weather, and jagged limestone cliffs made navigation a deadly challenge, turning this stretch of ocean into a graveyard for vessels and their crews. Today, it's a place of raw beauty and a dramatic reminder of nature’s power and the many souls who were lost here. 

  4. After witnessing some wild weather, Huey delivered smooth seas and barely a breath of wind for our Bass Strait crossings. The whimsically named and distinctively stripey Mersey Bluff Lighthouse and Low Head Lighthouse (C1805) were my absolute favourites. Though the sunshine may have helped. Low Head is a hidden gem--you can't see its beauty until you're right underneath it. Amazingly, today, it's still a working pilot station guiding ships into the Tamar River.  On a blue-sky day, the white-washed cottage and setting were a photographer’s dream. The lighthouse is part of a large precinct of heritage buildings offering accommodation.  As we walked around this remote place hidden at the bottom of the world, I imagined stories and tales of past lives...and thought this place would make the perfect writer's retreat.